Beyond the Inspection Report: What Your Home Inspector Can't Tell You (And What to Do About It)

These issues typically cost $50,000+ to remediate, may indicate deeper problems, and often can't be fully fixed. Seriously consider walking away if you find these.

• What to look for:
• Horizontal cracks in basement walls (structural failure)
• Bowing or bulging walls (lateral pressure from soil)
• Stair-step cracks in block foundations (settlement)
• Significant floor slope (>1" over 10 feet)
• Doors/windows that won't close (frame distortion)
• Active water intrusion through walls or floor

Greater Boston context: Many homes here have fieldstone, brick, or early concrete block foundations from the 1800s-1940s. Age-related settling is normal. Active structural failure is not.

The test: Hairline vertical cracks are usually cosmetic. Horizontal cracks, bowing, or cracks wider than 1/4" indicate structural problems.

What to do: If you see these signs, get a structural engineer's assessment ($400-$800) before proceeding. If the engineer confirms significant structural issues, walk away unless the seller agrees to full remediation before closing—and even then, consider the risk.

• What to look for:
• Standing water in basement (not just stains)
• Active leaks during rain events
• Visible mold on walls, ceilings, or framing
• Musty smell that doesn't go away
• Water stains on ceilings below bathrooms or roof lines
• Efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on basement walls

Greater Boston context: Basements here are often damp—that's different from actively wet. A dehumidifier and vapor barrier can handle dampness. Active water intrusion requires excavation, drainage systems, or foundation repair.

The test: Visit during or after a rain event. Ask the seller directly: "Has this basement ever flooded?" (They must disclose known issues.)

What to do: Minor dampness is negotiable (sump pump, French drain = $5,000-$15,000). Active flooding or mold? Walk away or demand remediation before closing.

• What to look for:
• Capped pipes in the yard (fill pipe, vent pipe)
• Oil stains in basement near former tank location
• Property built before 1980 that was oil-heated
• No visible indoor tank but oil boiler present

Greater Boston context: Thousands of homes here switched from buried to indoor tanks or converted to gas. Many buried tanks were simply abandoned in place—not removed.

The test: Order a tank sweep ($250-$400) using ground-penetrating radar. If a tank is found, demand a soil test ($500-$800).

• What to do:
• No tank found: Proceed normally
• Tank found, no contamination: Negotiate $3,000-$5,000 credit for removal
• Contamination found: Walk away or demand full remediation before closing (with proof of DEP closure)

• What to look for:
• Knob-and-tube wiring visible in attic/basement (ceramic insulators, cloth-covered wire)
• Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels (known failure hazards)
• 60-amp or 100-amp service (inadequate for modern use)
• Aluminum branch wiring (1965-1973 homes, fire risk at connections)
• Ungrounded outlets throughout (2-prong only)
• DIY wiring (exposed splices, improper connections)

Greater Boston context: Pre-1950 homes commonly have knob-and-tube. It's not automatically dangerous if undisturbed and not buried in insulation—but many insurers won't cover it, and lenders may require remediation.

The test: Ask your inspector specifically about the electrical system's age and condition. If knob-and-tube is present, find out how extensive it is.

• What to do:
• Isolated K&T (attic only, properly maintained): Negotiate $5,000-$10,000 credit; plan to upgrade eventually
• Whole-house K&T or dangerous panels: Walk away or demand full electrical upgrade before closing

These issues cost $5,000-$30,000 to address, are common in Greater Boston's housing stock, and represent legitimate negotiating leverage—not reasons to walk away.

• What to look for:
• Age: Ask when the roof was last replaced (check permits)
• Curling or missing shingles
• Granule loss (bare spots, granules in gutters)
• Moss or algae growth (indicates moisture retention)
• Multiple layers (indicates prior overlay instead of replacement)

Greater Boston context: Our freeze-thaw cycles are brutal on roofs. A 20-year roof here may act like a 25-year roof elsewhere.

• What to do:
• Roof 15-20 years old, good condition: Budget for replacement in 5-10 years; minor negotiation leverage
• Roof 20+ years, visible wear: Negotiate $15,000-$25,000 credit or equivalent price reduction
• Active leaks or multiple layers: Demand repair before closing or proportional credit

• What to look for:
• Age: Check the data plate on the unit
• Efficiency: Older systems are less efficient (higher utility bills)
• Condition: Rust, unusual noises, uneven heating/cooling
• Service records: Well-maintained systems last longer

Greater Boston context: Many homes still have original boilers from the 1970s-1990s that work fine. Efficiency matters more than age if the system is functional.

• What to do:
• System 15-20 years, working well: Budget for replacement in 5-10 years; minimal leverage
• System 20+ years or showing wear: Negotiate $8,000-$15,000 credit
• System failing or inefficient: Negotiate replacement before closing or $15,000-$20,000 credit

• What to look for:
• Galvanized steel: Gray pipes, often rusted at fittings; low water pressure
• Lead service line: Dull gray, soft metal; often runs from street to house
• Polybutylene: Gray or blue plastic pipes; "PB" stamped on exterior
• Mixed materials: Copper + galvanized = galvanic corrosion at connections

Greater Boston context: Homes built before 1960 often have galvanized pipes. Lead service lines are common in older neighborhoods—Cambridge, Somerville, and Boston proper have active replacement programs.

• What to do:
• Some galvanized remaining: Budget $5,000-$10,000 for eventual replacement; negotiate if extensive
• Lead service line: Check if your city has a replacement program; negotiate $5,000-$10,000 credit
• Polybutylene throughout: Negotiate $15,000-$25,000 credit or demand replacement (insurance issues)

• What to look for:
• Home built before 1978: Assume lead paint is present
• Peeling or chipping paint: Especially on windows, doors, trim
• Lead inspection report: Seller may have one; request it
• Disclosure form: Massachusetts requires sellers to disclose known lead paint

Greater Boston context: Most pre-1978 homes here have lead paint somewhere. The question is condition, not presence. Massachusetts Lead Law creates liability for landlords with children under 6.

• What to do:
• Intact paint, no children: Low priority; maintain properly
• Peeling paint, no children: Negotiate $3,000-$8,000 credit for encapsulation
• Any condition, children under 6: Require de-leading certificate before closing or negotiate $10,000-$15,000 credit

These issues are normal for the home's age or low-cost to address. They shouldn't significantly affect your offer or decision.

Our regional housing stock has predictable patterns based on construction era:

The insight: A 1920s home in Brookline with knob-and-tube isn't "defective"—it's era-appropriate. The question is whether it's been maintained and updated responsibly.

Compare the inspection findings to what's normal for the home's age and construction type. Unexpected issues matter more than expected ones.

After reviewing your inspection report, categorize every finding:

Bucket 1: Walk-Away Issues

Action: Request specialist evaluations. If confirmed, walk away or demand full remediation before closing.

Bucket 2: Negotiation Leverage

Action: Total the estimated costs. Request a credit or price reduction equal to 50-75% of the total (sellers expect some negotiation room).

Bucket 3: Budget Items

Action: Accept these as part of homeownership. Don't negotiate unless the total exceeds $5,000.

In competitive Greater Boston markets, buyers sometimes waive inspections to win bidding wars. Here's the risk calculus:

Inspection Waivers Are Higher Risk For:

Inspection Waivers Are Lower Risk For:

The Middle Ground: Inspection for Information Only

• In competitive situations, consider:
• "Inspection for informational purposes only" — You get the inspection but waive the right to negotiate based on findings
• Pre-offer inspection — Pay for inspection before making an offer (if seller allows)
• Shortened inspection window — 3-5 days instead of 7-10

Your inspection report is a tool—not a verdict.

• Use it to:
• Identify genuine deal-breakers (walk away)
• Create negotiating leverage (request credits)
• Budget for future expenses (plan ahead)
• Understand your home's systems (maintain properly)

• Don't use it to:
• Nitpick every finding
• Expect a perfect home (they don't exist)
• Demand sellers fix everything
• Create conflict that kills reasonable deals

The goal isn't a problem-free home. The goal is a home whose problems you understand, can afford to address, and are willing to live with.

In Greater Boston's competitive market, the buyers who win are the ones who can quickly distinguish between deal-breakers and normal homeownership—and act decisively on that knowledge.